3D piece development

 For my 3D project i am exploring the ancient china dyeing technique where i will use one of the natural pigments that was used very often (Turmeric).

Why turmeric ? 

I choose the yellow colour because represents one of the most used colour by the emperor in China, being often used to decorate royal palaces, altars and temples. Being yellow an imperial colour in traditional Chinese colour symbolism (already referred in previous blog posts), also represents the late summer season, power, royalty and prosperity. Yellow represents the earth in traditional chinese culture. 

My intention with this dyeing it is not just dye all the piece but also explore and experiment a traditional tie dyeing technique used in the old days.

Tie dyeing was already used 1000 years ago (3rd to 4th century) , known as “skein tie” in the ancient time, being a traditional textile dyeing technique in the Southwest China, i decided bring to my project that essence and try reproduce the techniques that were used. It is possible to create flowers, plants, birds, mammals, fish, insects, folk characters and symbols, most of which are wishes for auspiciousness and good luck. The 1,000 or more tie-dye designs also reflect Bai history, culture, customs and aesthetic preferences. Having both decorative and practical applications, tie-dyed fabric is fashioned into both clothing and items of interior decor.

Photo credit: Yunnanadventure.com

Reference

The Skull and Sword. 2021. Tie-Dye History and Its Uses in Various Cultures | The Skull and Sword. [online] Available at: <https://www.theskullandsword.com/tie-dye-history-and-its-uses/> [Accessed 31 August 2021].

Elbe Textiles. 2021. Dye-ries: Yellow. [online] Available at: <https://elbetextiles.com.au/blogs/news/dye-ries-part-1-yellow> [Accessed 31 August 2021].

2D patterns final outcome 1

After choosing the final patterns, i painted with water colour pencils and golden paint.

I decided to do by hand the final painting to explore the materials i had and the next step will be put the drawings on Krita to improve the quality and the colours.

All the patterns have the same colour palette and they are the final outcome by representing the prototype of fabric patterns based on Ancient and traditional Chinese fashion. 

2D pattern development sketches

After do my research about the Chinese patterns and symbolism (previous blog posts), i sketched 5 different patterns where i will colour and put them on my 4 designs as a represent of the fabric details and/or patterns. 

I drew 5 but i will use 4 of them, the last image is the one that i will not probably use.

2D and 3D outcomes restructuring

 For my 3D piece i am currently creating some patterns and with that i will dye with natural pigment a t-shirt and do a simple embroidery with the pattern that i chose (always inspired with the colours and symbology of The ancient Chinese culture/ using traditional dyeing techniques with the "traditional" embroidery techniques).

My 2D project will be the designs that i was already creating for my collection but it will be just 4 outcomes and mix it with the patterns as a link for the 3D outcome.

Colour pallet research

 After research about the colours used in Ancient China and why, i decided develop more into it and research about the colours used not just in clothes and for decoration but in poetry.

During the Ming Dynasty period, the poetry started to have a bigger influence all around the world because it was famous for its fine ceramics and especially the cobalt blue and white porcelain. With it i decided to start thinking about create my colour pallete with that colours.

In the image above, is possible to see an experimentation about the dye techniques used in the past and how they bond and explored the colours in that period.

The next images will be about the three colour pallets i chose to keep developing my project.

Inspired in Ming Dynasty clothes palette

Inspired in Ming Dynasty porcelain palette

Porcelain vase, Ming Dynasty: 1420

Reference 

Textile Conservation. 2021. Unveiling the Mystery of Dyeing in Ming and Qing China. [online] Available at: <http://textileconservation.academicblogs.co.uk/unveiling-the-mystery-of-dyeing-in-ming-and-qing-china/> [Accessed 20 August 2021].

Webexhibits.org. 2021. Pigments through the Ages - History - Cobalt blue. [online] Available at: <http://www.webexhibits.org/pigments/indiv/history/coblue.html> [Accessed 20 August 2021].

Formal Chinese Hanfu for empress in Ming dynasty

Image research to understand the Hanfu composition, colours and patterns.

Adding though that each dynasty in China brought with it many essential characterisitcs to Chinese culture and fashion. Clothing in the Ming Dynasty brought a new perspective to the traditional clothing. A lot of clothing influences were devoleped due the Ming Dynasty and it was usually described as magnificent and graceful.

 

Reference 

hanfu gallery. 2021. hanfu gallery. [online] Available at: <https://hanfugallery.tumblr.com/post/146115870014/formal-attire-for-queens-in-ming-dynasty-by-%E6%AA%80%E4%BB%81> [Accessed 19 August 2021].

Project Sign off

 

Colour Research

On this blog post i will develop my colour research. 

I think it is important explain about it and how the colour had influence for the development of the Traditional Chinese culture. After it, i will do variations of colour pallets and choose which one i will use in my project.

The five colors in Chinese culture

Pattern reconstruction of the silk with the inscription "wu xin chu dong fang li zhong guo zhu nan qiang"

In ancient Chinese culture, there was the yin-yang theory and five-color system that included red, blue, yellow, black and white. Each color refers either to one of the five directions or positions, east, west, north, south and middle, or to one of the five planets, Venus, Jupiter, Mercury, Mars and Saturn, or to one of the five materials, metal, wood, water, fire and earth. 

However, the standard five colors, white, black, blue, red and yellow as described in the Chinese documents are changed a little on the jin silk textiles, for instance, black is replaced by blue, and blue by green, so that the resulting palette is blue, red, yellow, green and white. This may reflect the preference of the weavers for bright colors, or that the black color was not easy to be dyed during that period.

In most cases, yellow was normally used as the ground, and white was for the outline. The other colors are green, blue and white

This fashion was sometimes shown on the other materials, such as ceramics, but mainly on silk textiles, because the silk was most decorative material in ancient China.

Colour symbolism

The Red colour is associated with warmth, life and the fire element, denotes fortune and happiness, they used the red color on festive occasions. It can symbolize joy, but also to ward off evil influences. The Chinese regard red as the "Lucky colour" as use as an example, they used the colour red in weddings and ritual objects.

The yellow is a royal colour used by the emperors, represents power and authority. It is associated with the Earth Element, which symbolizes growth. Under the penalty of death, no Chinese person other than the emperor was permitted to be clothed in any shade of yellow or gold.

The colours green and blue, were associated with the wood element, both symbolize growth and are used to represent longevity and harmony. Blue is also used to denote heavenly blessings.

The colour white is associated with the gold element. It is considered the opposite of red and is used to express sorrow and grief. For the Chinese, white is the ominous colour of funerals and death. Black is associated with the water element and symbolizes the Darkness, it was considered the colour of bruises, and thus a sign of evil and remarkably unpopular. 

Reference

Digitalcommons.unl.edu. 2021. [online] Available at: <https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1063&context=tsaconf#:~:text=Brocade%20became%20more%20popular%20during,%2C%20black%2C%20blue%20and%20yellow15.> [Accessed 19 August 2021]. 

People.vcu.edu. 2021. Chinese Color Theory�illustrated article. [online] Available at: <http://www.people.vcu.edu/~djbromle/color-theory/color01/Chinese-Color-Theory-The-Symbolism-of-Color-in-Traditional-Chinese-Culture.html> [Accessed 19 August 2021]. 

Artist Research

In this blog post i will talk about the research i did and connect with my previous research, beginning with the explanation why i chose this way and develop from then on.

I started by research about Hanfu style and i found a Fashion content creator Shiyin, who is trying to revival the Traditional Chinese Hanfu style.

Shiyin wears a series of three outfits in styles from the Ming period. Here, she keeps the hairstyle modern and simple. “The robe comes in a square-neck style with a bu on the front. Historically, bu is the patch of embroidery on the garment that reflected your rank and status, but on this outfit, it’s just a pretty pattern of phoenixes embroidered in gold thread.” (Nast, 2021)

As my project will be a vision of the Traditional Chinese clothing, i decided for good explore more about it. Chinese clothing is often typified by the qipao, that consists in a close-fitting dress, however Hanfu is the type of a dress from any time when the Han Chinese ruled, including styles from the Tang, Song and Ming periods (that was already spoken in previous blogposts). Those periods are the most popular because of the authentic form of historical clothing because of the incorporation of flowing robes in beautiful shades, embellished with intricate designs and embroideries. 

Here, a jiaoling robe, referring to the wraparound collar design, in golden weave. “The pattern is called jiu yang qi tai, it features nine sheep and symbolizes luck and prosperity. This set is made by Ming Hua Tang — they’ve been specializing in Ming period designs for almost 20 years.”  (Nast, 2021)

Reference

Nast, C., 2021. Meet Shiyin, the Fashion Influencer Shaping China’s Hanfu Style Revival. [online] Vogue. Available at: <https://www.vogue.com/article/how-the-return-of-hanfu-represents-a-shift-in-china> [Accessed 10 August 2021].

Project development: Let's get to work

This were some explorations that i did with the chosen sketch for one of my pieces.

The challenge was try to develop and do something different with the same drawing.

 The project is based on the traditional ancient Chinese fashion and the bottom of my pieces will be as the bottom of a Hanfu, i decided not ornament the sketch to much.

I did some variants of the same drawing that i will still develop, choose and build a pattern. 

I used my notebook and the program krita by construction layers and edit the strings and the shoulders pads.

 

Sketches Development

 On this post i will put 4 sketches that i was already thinking as a final outcome for one of my collection pieces. 

The sketches were made with pencil and colour pen as a fast study of what a piece of my collection could be.

I will develop the sketch to a pattern and study it digitally.

The last sketch is what i chose as my final outcome. 

All the collection is based in the traditional ancient Chinese clothing, where i want to explore the patterns from the Ming Dynasty time (As flowers, animals, plants and geometric patterns). 

The red and black colours that i used on the sketches are still on the process to know if i will use them or not. I will explain and study the colours in a next blog post.